Stumbling on new design talent in the fashion industry is always exciting, especially when those designers can change the perception you have on fashion. Curious about what you might be wearing in a couple of years? Keep a close eye on these talents and you’re ought to find out!
Moses Gauntlett Cheng
Designer complex Moses Gauntlett Cheng, consisting of David Moses, Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng, is challenging the status quo. Known for pushing the boundaries from material choices to gender roles imposed by society, MGC has caused quite some controversy in the sometimes static world of fashion. Brilliantly shocking and oh so fun, their 2015 A/W collection was a non-stop party, starting off by models flaunting an adult baby look down the runway before jumping out of an RV. They explain their cutting-edge collection as a reaction to the piling stress and exhaustion in a rushed life. “We wanted to capture the vibe of going home and embracing comfort a little bit too much; reverting to this ‘adult baby’ stage and being looked after in a way that you’re kind of in love with and also embarrassed by”. Offering not only comfort but also a voice to a new indefinable generation; we expect them to occupy a permanent spot on the fashion radar.
In barely two seasons Lucilla Gray has already earned her place at both London Fashion Week and New Zealand Fashion Week, where she just presented her latest collection. Voicing an intelligent, strong woman, she merges conceptual fashion with ready-to-wear ideals as if they were made to synchronize. Although equally mesmerized by the otherworldly digital prints and versatility in her designs, we are mostly impressed by the level of sophistication she implements in every collection piece.
All eyes drawn to her remarkably detailed layering at Central Saint Martins graduation show, it is not a surprise knitwear graduate Ashley Kang learned her embroidery skills by working at no other than Alexander McQueen. Top that with a serious dose of glitter, metallics and heavy knits and you have Sporty Granny. Inspired by her own grandmother, her love for flowers and adventure, she created an overwhelming feast for the eye out of materials that couldn’t be more different but somehow fit the picture perfectly. Modernised granny glasses with beaded strings balanced out the outer space sneakers and futuristic silhouettes. Although we have only her graduation show to judge from, it is safe to say we will be seeing more from this young mastermind.
Another Central Saint Martins wonder, Quoï Alexander, is taking over the fashion industry with his ‘anything but ordinary’ knits. Characterized by strong silhouettes and killer weaving techniques, his latest collection exists of laced armours, intertwining ideas and references together. The inspiration behind his complex collection came from Xu Bing, the writer who tricked Chinese readers in thinking he mastered the language, while in reality his words meant nothing. Obscurity through abstraction, a concept Quoï executed by bold opulence. A choice he had to make, as he could have gone for a minimalist approach. Instead he went for the maximalist route, a choice that definitely launched his career and made us admirers of his work.
As maximalism was the former designer’s main strength, Austrian accessory designer Isabel Helf is all about practical minimalism. Her multifunctional handbags have led her to wining the top price at this year’s ITS Accessories Award and a steady future in the fashion industry. Not only are we amazed by the options that come with these handbags, performing as accessory, furniture and storage, the impeccable quality these handbags radiate is truly remarkable. Aiming to give our eyes and minds a break from cluttered reality, she was inspired by compulsive orderliness, a disorder she recognizes herself in. Her inner urge to create a balance between objects within her surrounding area translates itself in the functional value of her bags, solving the on-going issue of space saving. Having brought a truly unique product on the market, we are curious how she is going to translate the combining function and aesthetics in other concepts.